With the bell tower of Angelus behind us and after a reviving lunch at Café Lavinal in Pauillac, where some excellent foie gras was perfectly accompanied by a velvety Sauternes, we arrived at Pontet-Canet. We were warmly welcomed by owner Alfred Tesseron and his niece Melanie to the chateau, which nestles in the Pauillac appellation near Chateaux Lafite and Mouton, to witness a bio-dynamic harvest in action.
With the harvest in its final week Melanie escorted us through the vines, alongside the working teams to explain Pontet-Canet’s bio-dynamic approach to producing fine wine. Alfred redesigned the harvest process in 1999 and much of this practice exists today with the grapes gathered by hand, and carried by the team of seven magnificent horses into the highly labour-intensive sorting rooms.The simplified practices used ensure the condition of the grapes is protected, keeping them uncrushed and not engaging processes like pumping over to avoid the risk of oxidation.
The introduction of horses in the management of the vineyard a few years ago was more than a romantic vision or PR angle, it is key to the ideology Pontet-Canet adopts in the optimum maintenance of their terroir and vines. Ulysse, Univers and five other magnificent Postier Bretons, who also enjoy the odd grape, are used with adapted devices to help work the vineyards and assist with the harvest. Melanie walked us through the team sorting the grapes and down to the vats and there were smiles all around. Pontet-Canet too has enjoyed and benefitted from the extraordinary September weather and you can feel the suppressed excitement. Melanie’s view; “It’s early days but 2014 is looking very promising and we are very happy.”